Isaac Sharp and Asbjorn Kloster in the Faroe Islands (April – June 1862)

From the Narrative of Isaac Sharp (June 4, 1862)

The island of Myggennes is the most westerly of the entire group, and between it and Waagoe the ocean current is often very strong. With a crew of ten we left Sorvaag in an open boat soon after 6 in the morning. As appears usual, when entering on a hazardous enterprise, the boatmen sang a hymn while yet in the still water of the bay. The morning was fine, and in this respect greatly in our favour; but on nearing the island, it was found impracticable to land at the usual place, owing to the heavy breakers on the rocky shore; our boatmen, therefore, steered for the eastern end of the island, and entered a little cove, under shelter of a few projecting rocks, from whence our ascent began. After climbing up some 40 or 50 feet, a sloping ledge of rock, barely wide enough for passing one at a time, brought us to the foot of a difficult and almost perpendicular ascent, where a chain, hanging loosely against the rock, but secured at the top and bottom, presented the only means of access to the heights above.

Two of the boat’s crew, accustomed as fowlers to climb, first ascended, carrying one end of a rope of hair, and my turn having come, the other end, by a secure knot well tested, was fastened round the waist. In this manner the ascent of some 50 to 60 feet was made by climbing up the chain, aided by the men above who held the rope. The mountain slope on reaching the top, was for a considerable distance steeper than the roof of an ordinary house. My valued companion and myself were mercifully preserved from fear during the ascent, and felt no giddiness, but the strain on the muscles was great and exhausting. For nearly an hour we continued to ascend the ridges of the Fell, in some places rocky, and steep, and veiled, as the mists of the mountains came sweeping by. On nearing the hamlet we met seven men on their way to the rocky ledges to seek for sea birds and for eggs, - a dangerous enterprise, much resorted to in some of the islands of Faroe. The object of our visit was explained; they told us it was too far for them to go back, their arrangements for the fowling having been previously made, but that they were willing to go with us a little space to the sheltering brow of a hill. This being done, the opportunity was embraced to tell them that although in their hazardous employment they were accustomed to leave their homes, exposed to dangers which at any moment might end their earthly course, there is a death more terrible far than the death of the body, and that it is the bounden duty of each daily to seek a preparation for the life to come, &c. The men were respectful, and listened attentively; soon we parted company and journeyed on, they in one direction, we in another. Between 11 and 12 we reached the hamlet; but the Kirkevegr, the principal man of the place, told us plainly, there had been service in the kirk that morning already, and he did not care for any more; if the people wished to attend our meeting they might, though not at his house; but we were welcome to come in and rest. We entered and soon found his wife more favourably disposed towards us; by degrees her husband softened, and not only prepared a room for the meeting, but gave notice to his neighbours to attend, and accordingly, between  12 and 1, nearly fifty persons assembled, among whom my companion had an open time, and subsequently interpreted the portion which fell to my lot to communicate. It was a good meeting, and the Kirkevegr afterwards warmly and very cordially acknowledged the visit. Some sea birds were boiled for dinner, which, with potatoes, rye bread and butter, a cup of coffee, and a few biscuits, furnished a refreshing meal. The waves were still too high to allow of our departure by the usual landing, so taking leave of the Kirkevegr and his family, we set off on foot over the mountains, conscious in passing along of the peril which awaited us on reaching the chain.

The descent though not easy, was accomplished in safety; we were soon once more in the boat, and after a tossing on the tidal waves which rose and fell with a majestic sweep, reached Sorvaag about 8 in the evening, with a peaceful sense on our spirits of the providential care mercifully extended to us in the time of need; truly the promise was again fulfilled, ‘As thy days so shall thy strength be.’