Isaac Sharp and Asbjorn Kloster in the Faroe Islands (April – June 1862)

Journal of Isaac Sharp - May 27, 1862

Dalur

A small meeting at half-past seven in the morning. A, K. was silent, but had a good deal of conversation with the son of our host, whose religious views appear to be of a very doubtful character. His mother acknowledged our visit very agreeably, and could scarcely be prevailed upon to take the money her son had named for our board and lodging. As regards accommodation, it was one of the poorest places we have met with, and forcibly reminded of us of last year's experience.

Stora Dimun

Shortly before nine, we left Dahl (Dalur) for Store Dimon (Stora Dimun), having a good boat with ten men, the smallest number deemed safe for any place of exposure where the surf is heavy, and the current strong. Great was our privilege in having fine weather for this excursion. As we drew near to the island, the outline rugged and steep, and rising perpendicularly from the ocean, with a cloud resting on the summit from end to end, presented a formidable appearance, and the eye wandered to and fro in vain to discover the landing place. Passing on beneath the cliffs where the sea-birds were hovering by thousands, or perching on the ledges of the rock, we came at length to a little reef over which the billows were breaking so as to tax the boatman's ingenuity, even in fair weather, for securing the momentary lull during which to thrust forward their little bark to the weed-clad place of landing.

The King of Denmark, when Crown Prince, once visited Faroe, came hither, saw the rocky ledges, and prudently turned back without attempting to reach the summit. In looking to this place, our guide had said the rope was not always there; and, without it, the ascent could scarcely be accomplished. For months together, this island is altogether unapproachable, and rarely is the water so still as to allow of landing as we did this morning. Thankfulness arose in my heart as I thought of the providential care which had brought us to this distant spot on a day so calm and still. We commenced the ascent of some 240 feet, a portion of it not very far from perpendicular: I felt that duty led way, and fear had little place. The captain of our crew had relatives on the island, and knew the way perfectly; strong and active, he gave me a helping hand at the most difficult points, which were thereby rendered comparatively easy. Rising from rock to rock, we came at length to a narrow, sloping shelf; passing along which, at a dizzy height, the remainder of the way lay through a precipitous cleft in the rock. Half-an-hour from starting brought us to the top, and very delightful it was once more to tread the soft, green sward of a level surface.

We were soon invited to enter a clean and nicely-furnished room with open windows, and at noon held our little meeting with the inhabitants of this isolated portion of the Faroe Isles. Eighteen inhabitants reside here, who receive a visit twice a year from the pastor within whose district the island is situated. The land, sloping to the south, produces good crops of barley, and there is grass sufficient for 500 sheep, and 36 head of cattle: a few geese are also kept, as is common in Faroe. Sea- birds are captured in great numbers, and a tax of one-tenth is paid on 7,000 annually. We walked a short distance to another part of the island, to see the spot where the imports and exports are raised and lowered, the island being, in this part, perpendicular. There fell down and died the father of the wife of the present occupant; and there fell down and died one of his predecessors! The time had now come for our return, by the way we came. A rope, in the interim, had been kindly placed in the rocky steep, and aided our descent. On reaching the bottom, the boat was presently launched, and soon we were once more on the open sea, We left about three, and there was mercifully permitted me a peaceful discharge from a little debt of love which for weeks had abidingly rested on my mind.

Suderoy

We had a favourable passage, and in a little less than three hours, landed at Qualboe (Hvalba) in the northern part of the island of Suderoe (Suderoy).